Saturday, 17 November 2007
Saturday, 14 April 2007
about this blog
This blog is about the planning and experience of my trip to Italy.
I was not able to use the blog when I was travelling. When I returned I added all the e-mails I sent to friends while I was away. So the next entry after this is actually the last e-mail I sent. I think you can click on the links in the right hand column to read it in chronological order.
My photos are at http://www.bolandg.zenfolio.com/.
Sunday, 8 April 2007
Today's rave about Sienese works of art and Duomo.
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2007 01:32:11 +0800
Hi
It's me again. Taking shelter from rainy weather.
Today I saw the wonderful Duomo in Siena. I can't imagine how it affected the maediaval pilgrims, who could have come from as far away as France along the via Francigena, which in those days was the way to Rome for Christians paying homage. It certainly is amazing even with large numbers of tourists and noisy groups of Italian school students. I won't try to describe it as I wouldn't be able to do it justice.
Also went to the Baptistery with bronze sculptures around the font by Donazetti depicting the beheading of John the Baptist. Also wonderful frescoes depicting the Creed. They have mirrors on the seats so you can see the details without craning your neck.
Then the crypt which apparently wasn't really the crypt, but more likely a foyer where pilgrims coming from the north could rest and prepare to enter the Duomo.It was only discovered in the 1990s as it had been full of buiding rubble from the entrance to the original cathedral. As they hadn't been exposed to air or water the frescoes had been preserved and haven't been restored.
Then as part of the same E10 ticket more works of art. I'm still not sure whether I saw the most famous painting in Siena by Ducci. I think they refer to paintings of the enthroned Mother and Child as Maestra. This phenomena was developed in Siena. There were quite a few Maestras so I as I said I'm not sure whether or not I saw the most famous.
It was nice and sunny this morning but turned to miserable rain this afternoon so I spent a few hours in my room looking out at the drizzle falling on the terracotta roof tops.
The time changed here yesterday so it won't get dark until about 8pm, but no sign of Summer weather. I'm very glad I experienced the unseasonal warmth during my first 10 days as the hilltowns can be a bit dark in gloomy weather. Especially Sienna as it is quite big and there are few views out to the surrounding countryside.
BTW I forgot to mention the Campo which is the huge irregularly shaped piazza where the famous Palio horse race is held twice a year.
I leave for Rome at 10.30 am by bus. I think it takes about 3 hours.
Well thanks for listening to my travel reports.
It's prima piatti time, which means first course - pasta which is about all I can afford at the ristorante.
Bye
Gerri
Hi
It's me again. Taking shelter from rainy weather.
Today I saw the wonderful Duomo in Siena. I can't imagine how it affected the maediaval pilgrims, who could have come from as far away as France along the via Francigena, which in those days was the way to Rome for Christians paying homage. It certainly is amazing even with large numbers of tourists and noisy groups of Italian school students. I won't try to describe it as I wouldn't be able to do it justice.
Also went to the Baptistery with bronze sculptures around the font by Donazetti depicting the beheading of John the Baptist. Also wonderful frescoes depicting the Creed. They have mirrors on the seats so you can see the details without craning your neck.
Then the crypt which apparently wasn't really the crypt, but more likely a foyer where pilgrims coming from the north could rest and prepare to enter the Duomo.It was only discovered in the 1990s as it had been full of buiding rubble from the entrance to the original cathedral. As they hadn't been exposed to air or water the frescoes had been preserved and haven't been restored.
Then as part of the same E10 ticket more works of art. I'm still not sure whether I saw the most famous painting in Siena by Ducci. I think they refer to paintings of the enthroned Mother and Child as Maestra. This phenomena was developed in Siena. There were quite a few Maestras so I as I said I'm not sure whether or not I saw the most famous.
It was nice and sunny this morning but turned to miserable rain this afternoon so I spent a few hours in my room looking out at the drizzle falling on the terracotta roof tops.
The time changed here yesterday so it won't get dark until about 8pm, but no sign of Summer weather. I'm very glad I experienced the unseasonal warmth during my first 10 days as the hilltowns can be a bit dark in gloomy weather. Especially Sienna as it is quite big and there are few views out to the surrounding countryside.
BTW I forgot to mention the Campo which is the huge irregularly shaped piazza where the famous Palio horse race is held twice a year.
I leave for Rome at 10.30 am by bus. I think it takes about 3 hours.
Well thanks for listening to my travel reports.
It's prima piatti time, which means first course - pasta which is about all I can afford at the ristorante.
Bye
Gerri
Sunday in Siena
25th March
Greetings again,
Since leaving Cortona I haven't had much people contact and the weather is drizzly and cold, however all is still bellisimo.
I stayed at Montalcino for 3 nights in Camere de Anna, which was very comfortable. There is a Montalcinese equivalent to 'Under the Tuscan Sun' (set in Cortona). It's called 'Vanilla Beans and Brodo' by Isabelle Duisi, which gives a good account of the life which re
volves around the 'contradi' or the quarters of the town.
The view is spectacular. It looks as though the earth curves upwards, as though you are looking down from the sky.
Greetings again,
Since leaving Cortona I haven't had much people contact and the weather is drizzly and cold, however all is still bellisimo.
I stayed at Montalcino for 3 nights in Camere de Anna, which was very comfortable. There is a Montalcinese equivalent to 'Under the Tuscan Sun' (set in Cortona). It's called 'Vanilla Beans and Brodo' by Isabelle Duisi, which gives a good account of the life which re
volves around the 'contradi' or the quarters of the town.The view is spectacular. It looks as though the earth curves upwards, as though you are looking down from the sky.
iIdid the walk out to the Abbey of Antimo as planned. It was a fair hike about 12 kms with views of snow covered mountains and vineyards where the famous Brunello de Montalcino grows. Unfortumately I missed hearing the Gregorian chanting as I had to catch the bus back.
However the interior of the ancient church was huge, rather austere in a beautiful way and a change from those with the highly decorative frescoes that are more the norm.
According to descriptions I read the abbey was abandoned for about 500 years until about maybe 20 or 30 years ago when a branch of French Cistercians took over. Apparently their practice includes group praying or saying mass 7 times a day all in Gregorian chant.
Today I arrived in Siena. It's Sunday so lots of Italian tourists.
I have found my room and it has a wonderful view. I have tomorrow to see the Duomo and other sites.
On Tuesday I will be in Rome. Hard to believe my trip is nearly over.
Ciao
Gerri
Montepulciano
22nd March
Buongiorno
Today I am in a new town, Montepulciano, in Southern Tuscany. I stayed here in a very comfortable hotel, called Albergo Marcozzo, last night. It is still freezing, so this morning I had the luxury of lying in bed watching the diving and water dancing championships from Melbourne. The aqua aerobics seemed to have a very Latin feel to them. I wonder how all that make-up stays on.
I had a lovely breakfast, european style with proscuitto, frssh bread and brioche and the usual warm milk and coffee, yum.
Today I am catching the bus to Montalcino where I hope to stay for 4 nights. I have booked accommodation with Anna at her rooms.
Well just a short note today.
Cheerio
Gerri
Buongiorno
Today I am in a new town, Montepulciano, in Southern Tuscany. I stayed here in a very comfortable hotel, called Albergo Marcozzo, last night. It is still freezing, so this morning I had the luxury of lying in bed watching the diving and water dancing championships from Melbourne. The aqua aerobics seemed to have a very Latin feel to them. I wonder how all that make-up stays on.
I had a lovely breakfast, european style with proscuitto, frssh bread and brioche and the usual warm milk and coffee, yum.
Today I am catching the bus to Montalcino where I hope to stay for 4 nights. I have booked accommodation with Anna at her rooms.
Well just a short note today.
Cheerio
Gerri
Snowing in Cortona
Subject: Snowing in Cortona
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 03:28:01 +0900
Greetings,
Just a short message tonight as I have found a friend to go to the ristorante with.
What a dramatic change in the weather! Yesterday it became cold and the rain stared pouring down. This morning it was freezing and at about midday the snow started falling. My new travelmate Sally who comes from Seattle said it was a blizzard. I had gone for a walk up into the hills and when it started snowing I was able to take refuge in a bar at Torreone , the same one that I sat in the sun reading my book just 2 days ago.
Anyway the cold weather provides a good reason to sample the local food and wine. Yesterday I went to Arezzo and had some nice tagliatelle con porcini followed by tiramisu, plus a glass of red wine. I met Sally on the bus returning to Cortona. Last night we went to a local ristorante and had superb food. There were lots of local men there but no other women.
I moved out of the convent to the San Marco hostel which is about half the price and very comfortable. I have my own room for E17.
Tomorrow I am heading to Montepulciano which was not planned. However it is on a direct bus route to Montalcino and as the bus doesn't arrive till 3.15pm I think I will stay at the half way point ie Montepulciano for 1 or 2 nights. I haven't booked accommodation so hope I can find something. The next stop will be Montalcino providing I can find a bed, then Siena, then Rome!
Must eat!
Gerri
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 03:28:01 +0900
Greetings,
Just a short message tonight as I have found a friend to go to the ristorante with.
What a dramatic change in the weather! Yesterday it became cold and the rain stared pouring down. This morning it was freezing and at about midday the snow started falling. My new travelmate Sally who comes from Seattle said it was a blizzard. I had gone for a walk up into the hills and when it started snowing I was able to take refuge in a bar at Torreone , the same one that I sat in the sun reading my book just 2 days ago.
Anyway the cold weather provides a good reason to sample the local food and wine. Yesterday I went to Arezzo and had some nice tagliatelle con porcini followed by tiramisu, plus a glass of red wine. I met Sally on the bus returning to Cortona. Last night we went to a local ristorante and had superb food. There were lots of local men there but no other women.
I moved out of the convent to the San Marco hostel which is about half the price and very comfortable. I have my own room for E17.
Tomorrow I am heading to Montepulciano which was not planned. However it is on a direct bus route to Montalcino and as the bus doesn't arrive till 3.15pm I think I will stay at the half way point ie Montepulciano for 1 or 2 nights. I haven't booked accommodation so hope I can find something. The next stop will be Montalcino providing I can find a bed, then Siena, then Rome!
Must eat!
Gerri
Still in Cortona
18th March
I have managed to press through the throngs of Sunday evening passegiatta to arrive at Luca Signorelli Bar which is my nightly place to hangout and do my correspondence. I can't imagine where all the people suddenly came from. This afternoon there was barely a soul in Cortona and now Via Nationale is crowded with all sorts of groups -families, young boys and girls, old signore and signora and the rest.
Luca Sigmorelli Bar reminds me of Johnny's Green Room in Carlton.
There are lots of men playing billiards, cards and other games. It must be a men's club. They have an 'Internet Point' here which hardly is ever used and is the cheapest in town. BTW Signorelli was a famous Rennaisance painter who was born in Cortona. I saw some of his paintings today at the Diocese Museum. All religious, but beautiful.
There were some other famous works by Fra Angelico and others too.
One was a beautiful picture called 'the Annunciation'.
I have adopted the Slow Travel philosophy and am staying longer than planned in Cortona. I have decided to skip San Gimignano and go from here to Montepulciano and then to Montalcino, both in Southern Tuscany.
I have spent the last couple of days walking out of the town and along the 'white roads' which are rarely used by cars. Today I came across a little bar in a village called Torreone, where I sat for about an hour drinking a cuppuccino and reading my book 'I'm Not Scared' by Niccolo Ammaniti. It's set in Sicily, but seems really appropriate for my current Italian mindset. I recommend the book,it's very simply written almost for children but with a universal theme.
I have watched a bit of TV and each night there has been a newsclip about Melbourne -the Grand Prix and the swimming championships. Borat is showing at the local cinema. I was tempted to go and see it but everything is dubbed so I wouldn't understand the punchlines.
I am enjoying the food you can buy in the Alimentare and bars and cafes, but I don't seem to make it to the places where they serve typical local food. I have discovered that the osteria are the places I should look for - they are not as expensive as the ristorante. I have been taking a can of tuna and a tub of yoghurt for my lunch. I usually go to a bar about 5pm and have something like brushetta. Yesterday I had bruschetta classico. It must have had about 2 punnets of chopped cherry tomatoes as well as mozarrella and basil on about 4 pieces of bread with oil. I think that cost about E5
($9) and in a nice place too.
I have managed to press through the throngs of Sunday evening passegiatta to arrive at Luca Signorelli Bar which is my nightly place to hangout and do my correspondence. I can't imagine where all the people suddenly came from. This afternoon there was barely a soul in Cortona and now Via Nationale is crowded with all sorts of groups -families, young boys and girls, old signore and signora and the rest.
Luca Sigmorelli Bar reminds me of Johnny's Green Room in Carlton.
There are lots of men playing billiards, cards and other games. It must be a men's club. They have an 'Internet Point' here which hardly is ever used and is the cheapest in town. BTW Signorelli was a famous Rennaisance painter who was born in Cortona. I saw some of his paintings today at the Diocese Museum. All religious, but beautiful.
There were some other famous works by Fra Angelico and others too.
One was a beautiful picture called 'the Annunciation'.
I have adopted the Slow Travel philosophy and am staying longer than planned in Cortona. I have decided to skip San Gimignano and go from here to Montepulciano and then to Montalcino, both in Southern Tuscany.
I have spent the last couple of days walking out of the town and along the 'white roads' which are rarely used by cars. Today I came across a little bar in a village called Torreone, where I sat for about an hour drinking a cuppuccino and reading my book 'I'm Not Scared' by Niccolo Ammaniti. It's set in Sicily, but seems really appropriate for my current Italian mindset. I recommend the book,it's very simply written almost for children but with a universal theme.
I have watched a bit of TV and each night there has been a newsclip about Melbourne -the Grand Prix and the swimming championships. Borat is showing at the local cinema. I was tempted to go and see it but everything is dubbed so I wouldn't understand the punchlines.
I am enjoying the food you can buy in the Alimentare and bars and cafes, but I don't seem to make it to the places where they serve typical local food. I have discovered that the osteria are the places I should look for - they are not as expensive as the ristorante. I have been taking a can of tuna and a tub of yoghurt for my lunch. I usually go to a bar about 5pm and have something like brushetta. Yesterday I had bruschetta classico. It must have had about 2 punnets of chopped cherry tomatoes as well as mozarrella and basil on about 4 pieces of bread with oil. I think that cost about E5
($9) and in a nice place too.
Cortona
17th March
I reached Cortona yesterday after a fairly short trip from Assisi- train to Terontola and then bus.
I had e-mailed Sergio at San Marco Youth Hostel a few weeks ago and booked for 3 nights. But Sergio had a full house when I arrived.
Fortunately his off-sider was able to drive me around to a few convents and we found one which could accommodate me. I have a very simple room with attached bathroom. It's a bit more expensive than the hostel but worth it to have my own room. From the window I can see the rooftops of Cortona and the valley below. I can also watch Italian TV if I want to. The nuns don't speak English, so it's a bit different to the friendly atmosphere created by the American nuns in Assisi. There are 2 young Romanian girls staying, I think they work for the nuns and apart from them I haven't seen any other lay people.
I have been walking all day today. I got lost, found myself above the tree line, chanced upon some men who took me in their truck to where I had meant to go in the first place. I finally made it to anoher Francis holy place, Le Celle, one of the many places in the area which he stayed. The monastery was built shortly after his death in his honour and has been run by the Cappuchin monks for the last few hundred years. A very awe-inspiring place.
The weather remains idyllic.
Having already lost this e-mail once I won't tempt fate.
I think I will sleep well tonight.
Gerri
I reached Cortona yesterday after a fairly short trip from Assisi- train to Terontola and then bus.
I had e-mailed Sergio at San Marco Youth Hostel a few weeks ago and booked for 3 nights. But Sergio had a full house when I arrived.
Fortunately his off-sider was able to drive me around to a few convents and we found one which could accommodate me. I have a very simple room with attached bathroom. It's a bit more expensive than the hostel but worth it to have my own room. From the window I can see the rooftops of Cortona and the valley below. I can also watch Italian TV if I want to. The nuns don't speak English, so it's a bit different to the friendly atmosphere created by the American nuns in Assisi. There are 2 young Romanian girls staying, I think they work for the nuns and apart from them I haven't seen any other lay people.
I have been walking all day today. I got lost, found myself above the tree line, chanced upon some men who took me in their truck to where I had meant to go in the first place. I finally made it to anoher Francis holy place, Le Celle, one of the many places in the area which he stayed. The monastery was built shortly after his death in his honour and has been run by the Cappuchin monks for the last few hundred years. A very awe-inspiring place.
The weather remains idyllic.
Having already lost this e-mail once I won't tempt fate.
I think I will sleep well tonight.
Gerri
leaving Assisi today
15th March 07
Boungiorno
It's another glorious day in Umbria. The sun has been shining for the last 3 days. Today it must be about 24 - amazing.
Yesterday I went to Montefalco a beautiful train and bus ride through the countryside. There is another famous 'Francis' fresco there by Gozzoli. Don't worry I had never heard of these artists before.
When I returned to Assisi Sister Denise had told me about a concert at the lower Basilica at 6.30pm so I went there. Something 'big' was about to happen. There were lots of religious including bishops with their cerise skull caps. It was in fact a sung mass in Latin, the singing lead by a musical group including a superb female soprano. It was a really big event - the Holy Roman Catholic Church at its most splendid. A large group of priests all in purple vestments for Lent, followed by 2 bishops with their mitres on, and a sway of altar boys or men holding candles, crucifixes etc. There must have been at least 100 priests, to add to the atmosphere, incense was being dispersed everywhere and the choir were reaching a crescendo. I really don't know what it was all about but obviously a special mass, involving holding up a large white mass book. A very special event to witness.
Apparently there is an Italian liturgical music conference in Assisi at the moment mybe that had something to do with it.
Must go catching train and bus to Cortona today.
Ciao
Gerri
Boungiorno
It's another glorious day in Umbria. The sun has been shining for the last 3 days. Today it must be about 24 - amazing.
Yesterday I went to Montefalco a beautiful train and bus ride through the countryside. There is another famous 'Francis' fresco there by Gozzoli. Don't worry I had never heard of these artists before.
When I returned to Assisi Sister Denise had told me about a concert at the lower Basilica at 6.30pm so I went there. Something 'big' was about to happen. There were lots of religious including bishops with their cerise skull caps. It was in fact a sung mass in Latin, the singing lead by a musical group including a superb female soprano. It was a really big event - the Holy Roman Catholic Church at its most splendid. A large group of priests all in purple vestments for Lent, followed by 2 bishops with their mitres on, and a sway of altar boys or men holding candles, crucifixes etc. There must have been at least 100 priests, to add to the atmosphere, incense was being dispersed everywhere and the choir were reaching a crescendo. I really don't know what it was all about but obviously a special mass, involving holding up a large white mass book. A very special event to witness.
Apparently there is an Italian liturgical music conference in Assisi at the moment mybe that had something to do with it.
Must go catching train and bus to Cortona today.
Ciao
Gerri
Still in Assisi
12th March
I don't seem to be able to use the blog. I think it's because this computer doesn't have Google desktop application. BTW if anyone doesn't want to receive messages just let me know.
I can access my email using my home address so you can just reply as usual. Thanks for the replies. It is good to get them.
I'm still enjoying Assisi and decided to stay the extra days instead of going to Perugia.
yesterday have been gorgeous Spring days and I was able to start stripping the layers off. I even had to roll up my sleeves today.
I have been visiting neighbouring hill towns yesterday and today. I catch the train but first I must catch the bus from the hill town of Assisi down to the station at St Maria del Angelo, that's about 15 minutes away. Yesterday I went to Spello the next station on the line and today Bevegna which involved catching the train one more stop to Foligno and then a bus.
Both were of course divine. I had a beautiful bowl of pea soup at a Ristorante in Spello. That was the first ristorante I have been to. I usually order a panini or similar at a bar. just imagine many Brunellos as in Carlton. Prices are about the same. Ristorantes are more formal and also more expensive. Anyway the bars are great. My local bar where I am now using the Internet is very 'cool'. They play jazz music - it sounds like a modern version of Ella Fitzgerald.
I've been able to easily walk out into the countryside surounding the towns. It's a familiar landscpe - lots of olive groves and vines.
Often artichokes are planted between the olive trees or vines. The farmers are busy ploughing the soil for summer crops. Broad beans are growing fast. Fruit trees are in blossum. It's probably about the equivalent of September in Victoria. I can see a Tuscan garden design happening when I return. Today I made friends with a dog. I haven't thought much about Sam, but don't tell him that. If he was an Italian dog he could travel by train.
The Franciscan friendliness seems to permeate the area. It's nice to return to a friendly welcome at my temporary home.
On Sunday I walked quite a few kms up a steep hill to the Eremo Carcero another monastery where Francis frequented. I've been taking lots of pics, but haven't been able to work out how upload them to my Zenfolio site. Nearly lost my camera yesterday. it fell out of my pocket at a Duomo, but fortunately a man who was working there found it. There is a lot of restoration work going on in the churches and streets. Heavy machinery looks a bit out of place in a mediaval town.
Well that's all for now.
On Thursday I go to Cortona.
Speak soon
Gerri
I don't seem to be able to use the blog. I think it's because this computer doesn't have Google desktop application. BTW if anyone doesn't want to receive messages just let me know.
I can access my email using my home address so you can just reply as usual. Thanks for the replies. It is good to get them.
I'm still enjoying Assisi and decided to stay the extra days instead of going to Perugia.
yesterday have been gorgeous Spring days and I was able to start stripping the layers off. I even had to roll up my sleeves today.
I have been visiting neighbouring hill towns yesterday and today. I catch the train but first I must catch the bus from the hill town of Assisi down to the station at St Maria del Angelo, that's about 15 minutes away. Yesterday I went to Spello the next station on the line and today Bevegna which involved catching the train one more stop to Foligno and then a bus.
Both were of course divine. I had a beautiful bowl of pea soup at a Ristorante in Spello. That was the first ristorante I have been to. I usually order a panini or similar at a bar. just imagine many Brunellos as in Carlton. Prices are about the same. Ristorantes are more formal and also more expensive. Anyway the bars are great. My local bar where I am now using the Internet is very 'cool'. They play jazz music - it sounds like a modern version of Ella Fitzgerald.
I've been able to easily walk out into the countryside surounding the towns. It's a familiar landscpe - lots of olive groves and vines.
Often artichokes are planted between the olive trees or vines. The farmers are busy ploughing the soil for summer crops. Broad beans are growing fast. Fruit trees are in blossum. It's probably about the equivalent of September in Victoria. I can see a Tuscan garden design happening when I return. Today I made friends with a dog. I haven't thought much about Sam, but don't tell him that. If he was an Italian dog he could travel by train.
The Franciscan friendliness seems to permeate the area. It's nice to return to a friendly welcome at my temporary home.
On Sunday I walked quite a few kms up a steep hill to the Eremo Carcero another monastery where Francis frequented. I've been taking lots of pics, but haven't been able to work out how upload them to my Zenfolio site. Nearly lost my camera yesterday. it fell out of my pocket at a Duomo, but fortunately a man who was working there found it. There is a lot of restoration work going on in the churches and streets. Heavy machinery looks a bit out of place in a mediaval town.
Well that's all for now.
On Thursday I go to Cortona.
Speak soon
Gerri
Assisi 1
Subject: Ciao ciao
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2007 19:01:10 +0900
Ciao
I have found an Inetrnet cafe near where I am staying in Assisi.
I was going to upload photos but no luck.Forgot the password.
The location of St Anthonys Guesthouse is superb, between the cathedral of Stclair and the St Rufinos.
I arrived on Friday about four pm after about thirty hours travel. I was welcomed by Sister Sue a French Canadian. I love my little room with bed, table and bathroom facilities. It is very simple and has shutter windows looking across the entrance to an ancient stone wall.
i am immersing myself in the pilgrim culture here. Yesterday I walked to St.Damianos an ancient monastery and then returned there in the evening to the reciting and singing of the evening prayers. Today i was up at 6am to go to the nearby St Clairs to hear the cloistered nuns singing the morning lords, followed by mass. Reassuring all this familiar Roman Catholism. Then back to the convent for my breakfast of bread rolls and warm milk and coffee.
So today I plan to walk to the Eremo where St Francis spoke to the birds.
The weather is wintery with occasional gusts of freezing wind, but I am all rugged up so no probleme.
The Italian keyboard is alittle complicated especially numbers and exclamation marks
A biento
Gerri
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2007 19:01:10 +0900
Ciao
I have found an Inetrnet cafe near where I am staying in Assisi.
I was going to upload photos but no luck.Forgot the password.
The location of St Anthonys Guesthouse is superb, between the cathedral of Stclair and the St Rufinos.
I arrived on Friday about four pm after about thirty hours travel. I was welcomed by Sister Sue a French Canadian. I love my little room with bed, table and bathroom facilities. It is very simple and has shutter windows looking across the entrance to an ancient stone wall.
i am immersing myself in the pilgrim culture here. Yesterday I walked to St.Damianos an ancient monastery and then returned there in the evening to the reciting and singing of the evening prayers. Today i was up at 6am to go to the nearby St Clairs to hear the cloistered nuns singing the morning lords, followed by mass. Reassuring all this familiar Roman Catholism. Then back to the convent for my breakfast of bread rolls and warm milk and coffee.
So today I plan to walk to the Eremo where St Francis spoke to the birds.
The weather is wintery with occasional gusts of freezing wind, but I am all rugged up so no probleme.
The Italian keyboard is alittle complicated especially numbers and exclamation marks
A biento
Gerri
Friday, 6 April 2007
Returned from Italy
I had a great trip.
I spent longer than intended in Assisi and Cortona.
Days spent packing, organizing travel route to fit in with public transport schedule, then finding new accommodation in next stop, then orientating to new town are best kept to a minimum.
I didn’t go to San Gimignano for this reason.
Transit days in trip
Of a 21 day journey (excluding flying time) I spent 6 days moving from 1 destination to the next
Day 1 Rome to Assisi
FCO to Termini - arrived FCO about 7am
Termini to Foligno - arrived Foligno about 11 am then 2 hour wait for next train
Foligno to Assisi short trip
Bus from train station at Assisi to hilltown
Then find accommodation
Settled in accommodation by about 4pm.
Day 7 Assisi to Cortona
Organize to vacate room and leave luggage by 10am
Bus to Assisi station about 1pm
Train to Terentola about 2pm then wait for about 1.5 hours for bus to Cortona
Change buses along way ? at Camucia
Arrived Cortona and found accommodation by about 5pm.
Day 13 Cortona to Montepulciano
Bus from Cortona to train station at Camucia about 9am
Train from Camucia to Chiusi about 9.30 then wait for about 1 hour for bus to Montepulciano.
Then find accommodation
Settled by about 1pm
Day 14 Montepulciano to Montalcino
Able to stay in accommodation until midday
Schoolbus from Montepulciano to Buonconvento about 2 pm
Bus Buonconvento to Montalcino
Found accommodation and settled by about 4pm.
Day 17 Montalcino to Siena
Bus from Montalcino to Siena at about midday
Settled in accommodation by about 3pm after waiting for B&B manager to let me in.
Day 19 Siena to Rome
Bus from Siena to Rome about 11am
Train for Tiburtina to Cavour
Settled in accommodation in Rome by about 3.30pm
Accommodation
Assisi Friday March 9th – Wed. March 12th
Franciscan Sisters of the Atonement
St. Anthony's Guest House
Via Galeazzo Alessi, 10
06081 Assisi (PG)Tel. 075.812.542
Fax 075:813.723
Email atoneassisi@tiscali.it
E35 per night, no deposit required.
Highly recommended. I had a small single with adjoining bathroom. Run by modern day nuns who are very welcoming. Breakfast in basement with beautiful vaulted ceilings. Nice garden area to relax with superb views of the Basilica of St Chiara. See my photos http://bolandg.zenfolio.com/p832039811/
Probably the best place I stayed because of the friendly reception.
Cortona 15th – 20st March
Instituto Santa Margherita
V. Cesare Battisti 15, , Cortona, Tuscany 52044
E 32 per night without breakfast
Stayed 4 nights at the convent and 2 nights at the Youth Hostel.
I stayed here by default having booked at the San Marco Youth Hostel which was not opened to visitors when I arrived. The convent was more than satisfactory but could be a bit spooky or on the other hand atmospheric. I did not see any other travelers there. The hot water was warm, not really hot. The view from my window was magnificent. The nuns were friendly but I did not see them much. They only speak Italian. Breakfast is available in a former chapel (with altar still in place!) for E3. some photos are at http://bolandg.zenfolio.com/p804234941/
Ostello San Marco Via Maffei, 57 - Cortona 52044 AREZZO (Italy)Tel. +39 575 601765
I then moved to the San Marco Youth Hostel where I had a perfectly decent room sharing bathroom for E17 per night (breakfast included!). I moved from the convent because it was a bit lonely and I wanted to see what the hostel was like. It’s in an old monastery not far from the centre of town with beautiful views from the dormitory. No school groups while I was there, just a few other travelers. I was given a key and could come and go as I liked.
Montepulciano 21st March
I hadn’t booked anything. I found ‘Albergo Il Marzocco’ www.albergoilmarzocco.it.
I had single use of a double room for E60 including generous breakfast. Recommended. Beautiful view from room. http://bolandg.zenfolio.com/
Montalcino 22rd -24th March
I stayed at one of Anna’s rooms. This was a single bedroom and with adjoining bathroom for E50 per night. The rooms are in an old building near the main street. Anna is connected to the Hotel Giglio and they organize the bookings. I booked the previous day from Montepulciano. Comfortable and affordable for Montalcino. Fake frescoe on the ceiling!
Siena Sunday 25th March – Mon26th March
B&B San Francesco
Tel. 0577.46533- Fax .0577.47924Vicolo degli Orbachi n° 2 – SIENA – 53100
E50 per night includes breakfast.
I was upgraded to a double room with beautiful view. The price on the back of the door indicated that E159 per night was the regular charge.
The B&B is managed by Manuelle who does not reside there. I did have to wait for about 45 mins for Manuelles assistant to let me in. This B&B has been recommended by others on Slow Travel. Apart from the wait to get in I would also recommend it.
Rome Tues 27th – Thurs 29th March
House of Welcome for Pilgrims and TouristsISTITUTO IL ROSARIOProvincia ItalianaDelle Suore di Carità Domenicanedella PresentazioneVia Sant?Agata dei Goti, 10 - 00184 ROMA
Ph 066792346
Irodopre@tin.it
E40 per night with breakfast and shared bathroom.
Peaceful retreat in quiet street in very central location near via Nationale. Recommended.
I spent longer than intended in Assisi and Cortona.
Days spent packing, organizing travel route to fit in with public transport schedule, then finding new accommodation in next stop, then orientating to new town are best kept to a minimum.
I didn’t go to San Gimignano for this reason.
Transit days in trip
Of a 21 day journey (excluding flying time) I spent 6 days moving from 1 destination to the next
Day 1 Rome to Assisi
FCO to Termini - arrived FCO about 7am
Termini to Foligno - arrived Foligno about 11 am then 2 hour wait for next train
Foligno to Assisi short trip
Bus from train station at Assisi to hilltown
Then find accommodation
Settled in accommodation by about 4pm.
Day 7 Assisi to Cortona
Organize to vacate room and leave luggage by 10am
Bus to Assisi station about 1pm
Train to Terentola about 2pm then wait for about 1.5 hours for bus to Cortona
Change buses along way ? at Camucia
Arrived Cortona and found accommodation by about 5pm.
Day 13 Cortona to Montepulciano
Bus from Cortona to train station at Camucia about 9am
Train from Camucia to Chiusi about 9.30 then wait for about 1 hour for bus to Montepulciano.
Then find accommodation
Settled by about 1pm
Day 14 Montepulciano to Montalcino
Able to stay in accommodation until midday
Schoolbus from Montepulciano to Buonconvento about 2 pm
Bus Buonconvento to Montalcino
Found accommodation and settled by about 4pm.
Day 17 Montalcino to Siena
Bus from Montalcino to Siena at about midday
Settled in accommodation by about 3pm after waiting for B&B manager to let me in.
Day 19 Siena to Rome
Bus from Siena to Rome about 11am
Train for Tiburtina to Cavour
Settled in accommodation in Rome by about 3.30pm
Accommodation
Assisi Friday March 9th – Wed. March 12th
Franciscan Sisters of the Atonement
St. Anthony's Guest House
Via Galeazzo Alessi, 10
06081 Assisi (PG)Tel. 075.812.542
Fax 075:813.723
Email atoneassisi@tiscali.it
E35 per night, no deposit required.
Highly recommended. I had a small single with adjoining bathroom. Run by modern day nuns who are very welcoming. Breakfast in basement with beautiful vaulted ceilings. Nice garden area to relax with superb views of the Basilica of St Chiara. See my photos http://bolandg.zenfolio.com/p832039811/
Probably the best place I stayed because of the friendly reception.
Cortona 15th – 20st March
Instituto Santa Margherita
V. Cesare Battisti 15, , Cortona, Tuscany 52044
E 32 per night without breakfast
Stayed 4 nights at the convent and 2 nights at the Youth Hostel.
I stayed here by default having booked at the San Marco Youth Hostel which was not opened to visitors when I arrived. The convent was more than satisfactory but could be a bit spooky or on the other hand atmospheric. I did not see any other travelers there. The hot water was warm, not really hot. The view from my window was magnificent. The nuns were friendly but I did not see them much. They only speak Italian. Breakfast is available in a former chapel (with altar still in place!) for E3. some photos are at http://bolandg.zenfolio.com/p804234941/
Ostello San Marco Via Maffei, 57 - Cortona 52044 AREZZO (Italy)Tel. +39 575 601765
I then moved to the San Marco Youth Hostel where I had a perfectly decent room sharing bathroom for E17 per night (breakfast included!). I moved from the convent because it was a bit lonely and I wanted to see what the hostel was like. It’s in an old monastery not far from the centre of town with beautiful views from the dormitory. No school groups while I was there, just a few other travelers. I was given a key and could come and go as I liked.
Montepulciano 21st March
I hadn’t booked anything. I found ‘Albergo Il Marzocco’ www.albergoilmarzocco.it.
I had single use of a double room for E60 including generous breakfast. Recommended. Beautiful view from room. http://bolandg.zenfolio.com/
Montalcino 22rd -24th March
I stayed at one of Anna’s rooms. This was a single bedroom and with adjoining bathroom for E50 per night. The rooms are in an old building near the main street. Anna is connected to the Hotel Giglio and they organize the bookings. I booked the previous day from Montepulciano. Comfortable and affordable for Montalcino. Fake frescoe on the ceiling!
Siena Sunday 25th March – Mon26th March
B&B San Francesco
Tel. 0577.46533- Fax .0577.47924Vicolo degli Orbachi n° 2 – SIENA – 53100
E50 per night includes breakfast.
I was upgraded to a double room with beautiful view. The price on the back of the door indicated that E159 per night was the regular charge.
The B&B is managed by Manuelle who does not reside there. I did have to wait for about 45 mins for Manuelles assistant to let me in. This B&B has been recommended by others on Slow Travel. Apart from the wait to get in I would also recommend it.
Rome Tues 27th – Thurs 29th March
House of Welcome for Pilgrims and TouristsISTITUTO IL ROSARIOProvincia ItalianaDelle Suore di Carità Domenicanedella PresentazioneVia Sant?Agata dei Goti, 10 - 00184 ROMA
Ph 066792346
Irodopre@tin.it
E40 per night with breakfast and shared bathroom.
Peaceful retreat in quiet street in very central location near via Nationale. Recommended.
Sunday, 18 February 2007
Plans change
I've made a few changes to my itinerary. I think I will stay in Assisi for 4 nights instead of 6 and then go to Perugia for a couple of nights. So I now plan to leave Assisi on Tues 13th March and go to Perugia. From there I will go to San Gimi as planned. I can stay at this hostel which is in the centre of the old town of Perugia and gets good reviews. I might need to buy some warm clothes. I would like to go to Gubbio for the day. There is a cable car which goes up the nearby mountain and apparently it is nice to go walking. I have read about a Gubbio ring walk in a book called Walking and Eating in Tuscany and Umbria.
In the same book and another book I've got - Walking in Italy (Lonely Planet), I've read about a San Gimi circuit walk. I could stay at this B&B overnight about halfway round the circuit..
I've changed my accommodation plans for Montalcino. I now want to go there for 2 nights instead of 1. I sent an e-mail to this B&B. They have a vacancy but they will debit the first nights accommodations costs from my credit card, which I'm not really keen on. So I think i will just 'wing it' and see what is available when I arrive there on Thurs 22nd March. There's a site which lists the affittacamera or rooms to rent so the Tourist Office should be able to direct me to a room. I decided not to stay at the Hotel Giglio as it is a bit above my price range and the room I was offered doesn't have a view.
In the same book and another book I've got - Walking in Italy (Lonely Planet), I've read about a San Gimi circuit walk. I could stay at this B&B overnight about halfway round the circuit..
I've changed my accommodation plans for Montalcino. I now want to go there for 2 nights instead of 1. I sent an e-mail to this B&B. They have a vacancy but they will debit the first nights accommodations costs from my credit card, which I'm not really keen on. So I think i will just 'wing it' and see what is available when I arrive there on Thurs 22nd March. There's a site which lists the affittacamera or rooms to rent so the Tourist Office should be able to direct me to a room. I decided not to stay at the Hotel Giglio as it is a bit above my price range and the room I was offered doesn't have a view.
Thursday, 15 February 2007
Battery rechargers and other necessities.
On the left is my MP3 player. I will have podcasts of radio programs, my Italian lessons and music to listen to. It also has a FM tuner so I can listen to Italian radio. Far below is the charger for the batteries for my camera and below right is the charger for the MP3 player.
Luggage
I am taking this trolley suitcase. The dimensions are 22"*16"*8". I think this is legal for carry-on baggage, but I will probably check it in as I will have a daypack for my carry-on. I'll also take the little black shoulder bag to carry passport, wallet and other valuables. I just found it at home. I bought it to take to Shannon's wedding. Sorry to say I can't upload the image of the little black bag. I must have exceeded my upload limit.
Wednesday, 7 February 2007
Siena Saturday 24th, Sunday 25th and Monday 26th March
After staying one night at Montalcino on Friday 23rd March and visiting San Antimo Abbey the next day (Saturday 24th March) I will return to Siena. The bus time table is here. I can catch a bus from Montalcino at 1445h or 1830h direct to Siena. I can either stay at Palazzo Bruchi and/or this B&B on the outskirts. It might be an idea to stay at Palazzo Brucchi on the Saturday night as then I would be inside the town walls for Sunday. There is also a Youth Hostel north of the town walls but it doesn't have very good reviews. I will have 3 nights in Siena and leave for Rome on the Tuesday 27th March.
Saturday, 3 February 2007
Next stop Montalcino 23rd March
I may stay in Lucarelli for an extra night or move to to one of the towns on the bus route back to Siena for the 3rd night, Thursday 22nd March. Castelina in Chianti may be a good spot to stay. I can catch the 1520h bus from Lucarelli to Castellini. And then on Friday morning I can get the 0909h bus from Castellina to Siena(arrives 0945h) to link up with the 1050h bus to Montalcino.
On Friday 23rd March I have booked at Il Giglio hotel. This is my most extravagant accommodation. E77 per night for a single.
I want to go to Montalcino for a few reasons:
On Friday 23rd March I have booked at Il Giglio hotel. This is my most extravagant accommodation. E77 per night for a single.
I want to go to Montalcino for a few reasons:
- to see the area south of Siena which is known as the Crete.
- to visit the Abbey of St Antimo where you can hear the monks singing Gregorian chants
- and because Montalcino is supposed to be a beutiful hilltown. It is where the book Vanilla Beans and Brodo by Isabella Duisi is set and it is also the home of a famous wine Brunello.
Tuesday, 23 January 2007
After San Gimi to Lucarelli 20th, 21st March or ? change of plan
Next stop after San Gimignano is Lucarelli. It is a tiny village in the Chianti area of Tuscany between Siena and Florence. I found this nice inn whilst browsing the web. It's not very far as the crow flies from SG. However I think I need to catch the bus from SG to Siena and then another bus to Lucarelli. The manager at Casa Il Ristoro has advised me as follows: I suggest you from San Gimignano to go to Siena in the morning (I don't know the time table but you can ask in San Gimignano) and from Siena take an other bus that arrive here in Lucarelli.
The last bus (the company's name of buses is TRA-IN) from Siena to Lucarelli is at 17:15 (from the station).
From Lucarelli to Greve in Chianti is possible to go by bus and the time table is: 06:45 - 07:30 - 09:00 - 13:35 - 18:20
From Greve in Chianti to Lucarelli at 13:15 - 17:55.
I also asked him about buses to local villages.
I have since found the bus time table here. I can catch a bus from Siena (Ferrovia stop) at 1355h, 1410h or 1715h arriving in Lucarelli 1 hour and 10 minutes later. i will catch the bus from SG at 1140h arriving in Siena at P.Gramsci at 1245h or change at Stazione FF.SS (?SG) and catch 1245h arriving in Siena (via Tozzi at 1330 or Policlinico at 1335h).
Change of plan.
Today 10th Feb I have been thinking that maybe I should stay in San Gimi for 4 days instead of all the bussing around to get to Chainti. In which case I won't book anywhere for the 20th and 21st. I'll wait and see. The 18th and 19th are booked at Casa di Giovanna. There is a convent in SG called Foresteria del Monasestero run by Benedictine nuns. I might have a look at that. Maybe I should change my booking at Montalcino to Thurs 23rd instead of Friday 24th. I have booked the San Francesco B&B in Siena for the Saturday 24th, Sunday 25th and Monday 26th nights.
The last bus (the company's name of buses is TRA-IN) from Siena to Lucarelli is at 17:15 (from the station).
From Lucarelli to Greve in Chianti is possible to go by bus and the time table is: 06:45 - 07:30 - 09:00 - 13:35 - 18:20
From Greve in Chianti to Lucarelli at 13:15 - 17:55.
I also asked him about buses to local villages.
I have since found the bus time table here. I can catch a bus from Siena (Ferrovia stop) at 1355h, 1410h or 1715h arriving in Lucarelli 1 hour and 10 minutes later. i will catch the bus from SG at 1140h arriving in Siena at P.Gramsci at 1245h or change at Stazione FF.SS (?SG) and catch 1245h arriving in Siena (via Tozzi at 1330 or Policlinico at 1335h).
Change of plan.
Today 10th Feb I have been thinking that maybe I should stay in San Gimi for 4 days instead of all the bussing around to get to Chainti. In which case I won't book anywhere for the 20th and 21st. I'll wait and see. The 18th and 19th are booked at Casa di Giovanna. There is a convent in SG called Foresteria del Monasestero run by Benedictine nuns. I might have a look at that. Maybe I should change my booking at Montalcino to Thurs 23rd instead of Friday 24th. I have booked the San Francesco B&B in Siena for the Saturday 24th, Sunday 25th and Monday 26th nights.
Friday, 19 January 2007
Rome: 27th March - 30th March
I'm jumping forwards to the end of the trip as I wanted to book something In Rome before it was too late.
I have booked my accommodation at Il Rosaria “house of welcome for pilgrims and tourists” Yes another convent, this time Dominican! Il Rosaria is situated near the Forum and not far from Palatine Hill. The cost for a single room without bathroom is E40. To get there from Termini station I can take bus 40, 64 or 170. or I can take metro line B and get out at Cavour Station. The address is Via Sant’ Agata dei Goti. Phone 066792346. e-mail irodopre@tin.it.
Plan for Rome
Wed March 28th: Campo dei Fiori Market followed by the Vatican: St Peter’s Basilica, St Peter’s Square, the Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel
in the evening: Pantheon and Travestere area
Thursday March 29th: Palatine Hill and the Forum and the Coloseum , Piazza del Campidoglio and Spanish Steps
Friday March 30th: my last day in Italy. I leave from FCO Airport at 12 midday.
I have booked my accommodation at Il Rosaria “house of welcome for pilgrims and tourists” Yes another convent, this time Dominican! Il Rosaria is situated near the Forum and not far from Palatine Hill. The cost for a single room without bathroom is E40. To get there from Termini station I can take bus 40, 64 or 170. or I can take metro line B and get out at Cavour Station. The address is Via Sant’ Agata dei Goti. Phone 066792346. e-mail irodopre@tin.it.
Plan for Rome
Wed March 28th: Campo dei Fiori Market followed by the Vatican: St Peter’s Basilica, St Peter’s Square, the Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel
in the evening: Pantheon and Travestere area
Thursday March 29th: Palatine Hill and the Forum and the Coloseum , Piazza del Campidoglio and Spanish Steps
Friday March 30th: my last day in Italy. I leave from FCO Airport at 12 midday.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)