Thursday, 11 January 2007

Why Assisi for 6 days?

I was brought up Catholic, but I’m now not religious. However like lots of people I find churches and the old RC rituals very moving. I also like the idea of walking in someone’s footsteps.
I guess I started reading about the St Francis Walk. That would necessitate a Reiti base, which seemed a little off the beaten track.
I read that Assisi is a beautiful hill town and of course it is also place of pilgrimage. A post to the Slow Travel Italy forum described a beautiful walk Assisi to Eremo della Carceri:
"The Retreat of Your Life"
Our first view of the monastery was from the valley below. Our host, Claudio, told us we were in the Valley of the Devil, where St. Francis had a battle with the Devil. It was a valley full of wildflowers and butterflies, more butterflies than I had ever seen. We were on horseback from a trail ride that began in Malvarina, a guest farm at the base of Mount Subasio.At the entrance to the convent, we dismounted and immediately noticed the quiet of the spot. It was out of respect to keep conversation to a minimum and almost at a whisper. We were at 2400 feet and in the forest. This was the spot where St. Francis and his followers came for rest, fasting, and meditation. Perfect! The Eremo is carved out of a rock cave and the doorways are so small, it's single file and bend your head to pass. The chapel is exquisit and you can feel the Holiness. As you exit through the convent and cross the devide, you take the path the follows the crest of the Valley of the Devil. This is the most peaceful walk on the face of the earth.
Yes that sounded pretty good and then there are all the basic St Francis attractions in Assisi. Also Assisi seemed like a good place to base myself and take day trips to nearby towns. Spello is only 10 minutes on the train. I could also visit the towns of Bevagna and Montefalco by catching the train to Foligno and then a bus through the countryside. Another attraction was the description of St Anthony’s Guest House that I read on one of the message boards. It is run by a group of American nuns, is well situated in the old part of town and was reasonably priced. I could get a single room with breakfast for E38. I just kept thinking about my nun’s cell in Assisi and that is what drove me to make my on-line ticket purchase. I can’t find the link to the description by other travelers of the convent, but it seemed just what I needed - fairly simple and my own room. The sisters replied promptly to my e-mail – yes they had availability on the days I wanted. So 6 nights and 5 days in Assisi. The plan is Saturday to the above described Eremo della Carceri and some sites in the town. The church of St Chiara (Clare) is near to where I will be staying. When to see the famous Basilica with the Giotti frescoes? There will be one day to Spello and another one or two days to Bevagna and Montefalco. Anyway that’s the general plan for Assisi and I will be able to get good advice from the nuns I’m sure.

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